Many summer residents are ready to exert all their efforts in order to equip the life of their own “suburban hacienda”, to turn the local area into a blooming garden or “green lawn”. What tricks do gardeners have to resort to in order to turn the site into a real “fragrant oasis” ?! If the land on which the metropolis is located is not suitable for farming, there is a need to import soil from outside, fertilize the soil, and take care of it. The painstaking work will soon bear fruit – the lucky owners of suburban real estate get the opportunity to enjoy the views of green plantations grown by their own hands, to use fruit and vegetable crops collected from the beds for food.
Summer residents with experience, however, are well aware that all their efforts will be wasted if moles settle on the site. Not everyone understands why these cute animals are harmful to agar purposes, destroying not only worms but also a lot of harmful insects, small animals.
Fight Against Moles
For most owners of a country house, the fight against moles in the garden is the number one task, since they inflict tremendous damage to green spaces. Animals masterfully dig a network of tunnels running to a depth of 20 cm. At the same distance from the top edge of the soil is the root system of garden crops. It is clear that the vigorous activity of rodents leads to dire consequences for the garden – in a matter of days, the “flowering garden” can turn into a desert. The peak of the appearance of moles occurs in the summer period – at this time, plants need to actively grow, to be filled with strength. Shrew animals appear more than one at a time – if you notice one mole in the area, you can be sure that at least 10 units travel in tunnel tunnels.
In order for the destruction of moles in the garden plot to achieve the proper result, it is worth betting on the use of a set of measures. Practice shows that individually none of them can be considered effective. Ultrasonic repeller does not work on animals, poisonous compounds are also not able to remove “workaholic” from the developed territories. On the positive side, reusable mole traps, which are installed along the path of moves, have proved themselves. Strong traps reliably destroy animals moving through tunnels – it is precisely on them that professionals, attracted by the owners of suburban real estate, recommend betting on them in order to save the site from hated diggers.
The sliding shutter trap is inserted into the tunnels. It must be remembered that moles instantly react to pungent odors, possessing a powerful sense of smell. Covering the traps with turf, it is possible to distract moles from them – the turf smells the same as the soil. Comprehensive work on driving moles involves the use of a combination of methods – in order to permanently rid your area of 10 acres of animals, you must install at least 10 traps placed in the tunnels of the underground tunnel system.
The red spider mite (Tetranychus urticae) is a tiny insect that feeds on plant juices. Most often, their invasion is quite difficult to get rid of. The most suitable time for this may be autumn when they slightly increase in size and acquire a more orange color. But regardless of the time of year when you decide to get rid of these parasites, certain organic remedies are suitable for this. If a spider mite has appeared – the methods of struggle can be varied. From the first try, usually, a little helps.
What Does a Spider Mite Look like – Photo and Description
First, you need to detect insects. You need to know what a spider mite looks like – a photo will help you “recognize the enemy in person.” The red spider mite can be found both indoors and in the garden – they are not particularly picky about what plant to eat. Most houseplants are prone to be infected with a red spider mite, especially if they grow under stressful conditions such as hot, dry air or inadequate watering and top dressing. Signs that an infection has occurred include:
- on the leaves there are pale yellow, red or silver spots;
- upon closer inspection, very small white spots (red spider mite eggs), as well as the mites themselves, are visible on the underside of the leaves.
If you see shiny white membranes between the stems and leaves, then this is also a sign of infection with a tick, but, as a rule, its extreme stage.
If you cannot make out insects but suspect that they are on a plant, you can try to knock them on a piece of white paper. At the same time, be prepared that pests, once on paper, will immediately rush to the edge to be under it, because they will perceive it as a leaf of a plant.
Spider Mite – Measures to Combat Improvised Means
If you find that you have got a spider mite – control measures should be taken immediately. To do this, you can use the means at hand. Humidity increase. The red spider mite does not tolerate increased humidity, so spraying and abundant watering of plants is a good step to get rid of tick insects and prevent future infections.
Prepare a soap solution for processing or purchase a ready-made organic mixture in the store. Spray the treatment under the leaves and wipe the surfaces of the sheets.
Spray with insecticidal soap. This can harm plants (phytotoxicity), so you need to either know exactly which plants may react poorly, or do test irrigation on one or two leaves.
Further Combating the Spider Mite
In the future, the fight against the spider mite will be reduced to creating unfavorable living conditions for it. Remove all leaves that show signs of damage. These leaves should be destroyed so as not to contribute to the spread of ticks. If the plant is very infected, you should consider sacrificing it for the health of the rest of the garden.
If the plant is in the garden, you should once a week carry out abundant irrigation of the entire garden with a hose.
Be sure to promptly and in sufficient quantities feed the plants with fertilizers and water to give them strength for self-defense in the future.
Plant monitoring should be carried out regularly to prevent infection in the early stages.
Remember that ticks show preferences for certain types of plants – roses, lilies, quinces, apple trees, blueberries, boxwood, juniper, and all plants are grown indoors.
Tips – How to Get Rid of a Spider Mite
The red spider mite, as a rule, lives in tropical and temperate climatic zones and successfully survives in greenhouse premises. Therefore, our advice on how to get rid of spider mites will include some aspects of plant maintenance.
In your garden, you can plant predatory insects that will eat a spider mite. You should consult a gardening store about this. Please note that this pest control option is quite expensive.
Warning Before Fighting a Spider Mite
Now you understand how to deal with a spider mite. But this war can drag on for a long time. And all this time it is necessary to observe personal safety measures. All insecticides have a toxic effect. You can inadvertently poison or harm people around you. Therefore, be careful, and only in this case, the fight against the spider mite will be safe for you. The option of switching to more toxic solutions for processing can be justified only if organic means did not help. In especially difficult cases, we apply “Malathion” (karbofos).
Things you need: insecticidal soap, disposable gloves, sprayer, appropriate fertilizers for plants.
Pest insects can destroy your garden. If you enjoy gardening while being concerned about the environment and your own health, then pest control should focus on natural or organic pesticides, that is, instead of products that contain chemicals and toxins. There are many ways to protect against pests that can scare away insects from plants in your garden without polluting the ground or harming your health. Organic pesticides and repellents can be used to treat the site.
Identify which types of insects harm your garden and which are beneficial to it. For example, bees and ladybugs are important components of the garden ecosystem, as they pollinate flowers and exterminate some types of pests.
Hang a bird feeder and a bath of water in the garden. Birds are a natural remedy for pests. Their presence on the site will save you from many harmful insects. To attract birds, they also use sunflower planting. At the same time, planting them along the borders of your garden as a fence, you can also protect your beds from wild animals.
Pull the net over the garden plants. Lightweight mesh is good pest protection for your trees and flowers without the use of traditional pesticides with harmful chemicals. Find a grid that is transparent enough to let sunlight pass through to the plants. You can find the right material at home and garden stores.
Remove pests manually. Your hands will serve as a biological pesticide – collect slugs, snails, and beetles. When collecting insects by hand, put them in a plate or basin filled with a soapy water solution – this contributes to their death. Use a stick to knock down beetles from tree branches that cannot be reached from the ground.
Make your own organic pesticide. Here, pest control in the garden comes down to preparing aggressive solutions for insects – make a mixture of machine oil and water and fill it with a spray bottle. Spray this solution in the garden and over the beds to deter pests.
Use factory-produced organic pesticides. Now in any large and not so big city, you can find a number of shops with garden products that sell suitable substances that will help in pest control. Be sure to read the composition. Make sure that the product does not contain chemicals and elements that you are not sure about.
Follow the directions on the label. Most organic pesticides are supposed to be sprayed directly on the beds, leaves, crown of trees, flowers. Try diatomaceous pest repellents, which are powders made from marine animal fossils. When using such funds, insects die from dehydration.
Use products containing garlic. Garlic is a natural insecticide and fungicide and best protects fruit trees and beds.
Consult and share experiences with other gardeners who use organic pesticides or other environmentally friendly methods to repel and kill pests. A lot of materials can also be found on the Internet.
Scabies on plants are pests that affect planting in the open ground and quickly spreading to nearby plantings and parasitizing, including on fruits and vegetables. Their name comes from the characteristic hard shells of green or brown. These insects feed on plant juices and secrete a sticky liquid, nectar – in the end, as a result of their vital activity, the plant dies. If you notice a scale insect or their nectar on your landings, then there are certain methods of combating the scale insect that can save your garden.
Scale Shield Found – How to Fight on Your Own?
If you do not know how to deal with scale insects, read some tips from experienced gardeners. Infected branches (processes) should be cut off and destroyed by incineration or treatment with insecticides in order to prevent the spread of infection.
Useful of beneficial predatory insects, such as wasp parasites or ladybugs, are possible.
Release predators directly into the beds or into the garden. After they eat all the insects, they will leave themselves.
A more effective fight against scale with the help of chemicals. At home, you can use ordinary household soap. Plants can be treated with a mild soapy solution. To prepare such a solution, mix 2 tsp. liquid soap and 3.5 liters of water.
The resulting mixture is poured into a spray bottle and the stems and sheets on both sides are thoroughly sprayed.
After a while (about half an hour), rinse the solution from the leaves and stems with a stream of water at room temperature.
Processing can also be carried out using horticultural oils such as neem oil. These oils are safe for other insects and plants.
Parasites can be scraped off the plants with a soft brush and soap or using the above spray mixtures.
Processing with factory chemicals and insecticides in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions is also effective.
Tips – How to Get Rid of Scale Insects
In order to protect sensitive flowers and plants, fruits and vegetables, and especially pets, before you get rid of scale insects, first try the least toxic methods of killing pests, and only then chemicals and insecticides.
Make sure that all plants, even those that cannot be processed, have been thoroughly watered before you start processing or planting predatory insects.
When using the soap mixture described above, make sure that you do not use it more than once a week.
When using liquid soap, make sure that it is mild in acidity, otherwise, it can harm delicate plants.
Warning Before Destroying the Shield
Before you destroy the shield take care of your own safety. If you decide to use chemical sprays, care must be taken to protect yourself with covered clothing and protective equipment such as gloves, goggles and a mask (or respirator).
When using any chemicals or insecticides, be sure to read the label – it is very important for your health and the environment.
After applying any chemicals or pesticides, make sure you thoroughly wash all exposed skin with soap and water. Clothes are best cleaned and dried outside the home, such as in a garage.
The presence of millipedes in the garden is usually helpful. However, if their amount exceeds a certain norm, they can turn their appetites to shoots of cultivated plants and soft fruits and berries, such as strawberries, instead of eating rotting plants. Here we describe an easy way to capture and move millipede pests to less vulnerable parts of the garden. To get started, decide on what place your millipede pests live in.
Effective Fight Against Millipedes
A safe and effective fight against millipedes is possible only by mechanical methods. Choose a place for your “trap”. Ideally, it should be located near fruit and vegetable stands that you intend to protect from millipedes, such as strawberry beds.
Make a small wire cage that can be dug into the ground.
Put a few slices of potatoes and carrots inside. It should be buried at some distance from the protected beds.
Check the cage regularly. Quite often it will be necessary to free the trap from animals since so many individuals will fall into it, attracted by food.
Remove the trap when the shoots are large enough to cope with the pests themselves, or when the berries are already harvested.
Tip – Look at the Millipedes
We recommend that you look at the photo of millipedes. These insects are often confused with more dangerous pests, which should be destroyed by chemical means. Millipedes are beneficial insects if their population does not exceed the ecological level. We advise you not to kill millipedes, but take them to a remote part of the garden. They are an important part of the ecosystem, as they consume rotting plant materials and wood and process it into fertile soil.
Things you need:
- small wire cells (how much depends on the size of the protected area and the number of millipedes);
- slices of carrots and potatoes.
Pesticides usually have a pungent unpleasant odor, and are generally dangerous to humans, as they decompose poorly in the natural environment, penetrate soil and water and poison them. We offer you a relatively mild gentle way to get rid of ants with biodegradable substances.
The manufacture of an annihilating or deterring ant control agent from common substances used in the household. Here is a list of useful substances and items:
- a piece of chalk;
- lemon juice;
- Cayenne pepper;
- 50% aqueous solution of acetic acid;
- water-based puree of orange peels;
- petroleum jelly;
- duct tape;
- corn flour;
- boiling water;
- vinegar slaked soda;
- nicotine water, which is prepared by leaving pipe tobacco soaked in water overnight and then filtering it.
Ways to Use Anti-Ant Agents
Spray ants with vinegar. Having a low pH, it will destroy ants and will not harm most types of furniture. This is a great way to clean indoor surfaces that guests have indicated.
Feed the ants with cornmeal. They will be happy to pick her up and take her to the anthill, where the colony will feed on her. But, since the ant organism does not digest this type of product, this will lead to the death of insects. At the same time, cornmeal does not harm animals. Similarly, wheat flour and dried ground rice work.
Arm yourself with duct tape. When you want to beat out from the ants in the apartment, lure them with food smells to the surface of the duct tape. They will stick to her.
Detect the anthill and destroy. It may take some time for you to observe the ants, but they will invariably lead you to the root of all problems – and you can destroy the anthill directly. A good way to do this is to pour nicotine water or boiling water directly on it. You can use an alternative method – with the help of a suitable wand or any other object, you need to destroy the top of the anthill so that it looks like a crater. It is necessary to fill it with baking soda up to half and pour it with vinegar – this will destroy the colony with a 100% guarantee. The destroyed anthill can not be removed from the site, it will gradually disintegrate and disappear, but if you want to speed up this process, put sod with grass on top of the skeleton. In case you do not like to cause harm to ants, insects do not like citrus fruits and therefore, most likely, they will have to find a new home.
Press ants with your fingers. Yes, this is also an effective method to get rid of unwanted inhabitants of the house or garden. However, always remember to wash your hands after a “bloody massacre.”
Preventive Ant House Control Techniques
Try to control those places in the house that can serve as a place for ants to penetrate. Mostly such places are cracks, holes, windows, and openings for pets. It is here that it is appropriate to apply preventive measures against insects.
Sprinkle salt on flat surfaces. This is a great way to scare away ants from window sills and get rid of their presence.
As another way to combatants, apply barriers with chalk. Draw lines on the walls and doorposts. Ants do not like the calcium carbonate of which chalk is composed, and therefore try to avoid it.
Pour lemon juice over the outer door sills. From this, the rapids will become a little sticky, but then the ants will be scared away by the pungent smell of citrus.
In places inaccessible to animals, you can sprinkle cayenne pepper. This tool is suitable for processing cracks and crevices.
Spray vinegar on large surfaces. This will be advisable in places where too many powdered substances are needed for processing.
Spread orange peels around the base of the house. Again – the smell of citrus scares ants away.
Along the edges, smear various objects with petroleum jelly. This will prevent ants from climbing into your pet’s bowls.
The best method of fighting ants is to keep clean. Wash countertops in the kitchen more often and do not leave crumbs anywhere.
If you do not accept the extermination of ants, we advise you to hang an open jar of honey on a tree in the garden in early summer – they will be happy to forget about your kitchen.
Some of the methods described above may be prohibited by local law. Be careful.
Nicotine is extremely toxic, it can be absorbed through the skin into the bloodstream. In high concentrations, its effects can be fatal! Always use rubber gloves when handling this substance. Pregnant women are highly discouraged from contacting nicotine.
Be prepared for the ants to return. You will have to repeat these operations more than once.
Remember: ants are an important link in the natural balance. Do not exterminate ants around the house, but only in it.
If you like to plant domestic plants, then you should certainly learn how to deal with mealybug. Powdery mealybug is an insect that feeds on the sap of the plant and which can cause serious damage in a short time. The product of his life is nectar, which attracts ants and promotes the propagation of mushrooms, called black mold. This type of insect is common throughout the globe. That is why controlling their numbers is an important step in maintaining the health of your home greenhouse. Infection with a worm can occur spontaneously, and population growth can occur exponentially, as a result of which damage can be very serious, up to the death of the plant.
The fight against the mealybug begins beyond the threshold of your home. Carefully check all new flowers for a mealybug before bringing them to your home.
How to Deal with Mealybug?
Be sure to monitor the soil of your existing species for excessive fertilizer. These insects are especially prone to breed in a land rich in nitrogen – so feed flowers only as needed. Before fighting a mealybug, prepare all the necessary tools and chemical solutions. Perform all operations with rubber gloves.
If it is found, remove the worms from the stems and sheets with a rag or paper towel. At the same time, they must be crushed. Rinse thoroughly. If you use paper towels, you should put them in a garbage bag and immediately throw them away.
After that, do not forget to check the plant for bags of worm eggs. These bags look like cotton balls adhering to sheets.
Touching a mealybug with a cotton ball soaked in alcohol will kill the insect.
To prevent the appearance of pests, you need to regularly wash the plant with a delicate detergent.
Spray oil or soap spray on leaves and stems. Such aerosols will destroy the colony by drying it or depriving it of air. However, this method is quite complicated due to the fact that bags of eggs can hide under the leaves and in other hard-to-reach places.
To obtain an immediate result, it is also possible to carry out processing with factory pesticides. However, such aerosols are only a short-term solution to the destruction of insect colonies and are not as effective as the only means of protection.
In case of severe damage to the plant with mealybug, it should be discarded. Sometimes there are situations when it is almost impossible to get rid of an overgrown colony of pests.
Tips – How to Get Rid of Mealybug
Infection with mealybugs most often occurs when a new plant brought into the house is affected. Before you buy any instance, make sure that it does not have insects and their eggs. Before you get rid of the mealybug, make sure that this is the insect you are going to take action against. A photo of a mealybug will help you recognize the pest.
When buying plants, it will not be out of place to quarantine a beginner for several days. At the same time, the appearance of worms should be observed. Even if during the purchase you do not notice insects or eggs on the foliage and the stem, then they may well be in the package or filler.
When using pesticides of the “Topaz” type for treating plants, make sure that the toxic mixture does not enter the soil.
Protection of potatoes from pests and the Colorado potato beetle should be carried out throughout the season. Measures and control measures include both special methods of cultivating arable land and the chemical agents used to process planting tubers and seedlings.
Pest Colorado Potato Beetle
Currently, the Colorado potato beetle is widespread throughout Russia. Beetles and larvae are harmed by roughly eating leaves, petioles, and even stems, from seedlings to harvesting.
The greatest harm is done by the Colorado potato beetle in those areas where potatoes were planted too late, that is, the pest, “not wanting it,” appears too early in the phenophases on plants.
Also, the harm from the beetle and its larvae can be very noticeable both in areas with sparse plantings and in areas where a low agricultural background is noted. Almost everywhere, bushes are completely nibbled by this pest, because of which there are large crop losses.
Beetles winter in the soil at a depth of the arable horizon – up to 20-30 cm.
After warming the soil to 14 ° C, they begin to come out of the soil, but not simultaneously, but stretched.
Protecting Potatoes from the Colorado Potato Beetle
Effective protection against the Colorado potato beetle begins with a thorough harvest of tubers in the fall. Beetles immediately populate self-seeding (plants which have already sprouted from tubers not selected in the fall) of personal plots, planting of replacement, as well as plots close to last year’s fields and cultivation sites. In remote areas, the pest appears 2-3 weeks later. Soon, females begin to lay eggs, placing them 20-30 pieces on the back of the leaves. On average, the female lays 400-600 eggs, and individual individuals up to 2400 eggs. After 7-10 days, larvae emerge from the eggs, which live and harm for 15-20 days, during which time they pass 4 ages. The timing of their appearance depends on weather conditions, but usually, it happens in June.
After feeding, the larvae leave in the soil for pupation, and after 10-15 days new bugs appear. Due to the lengthy exit of the beetles from the wintering places in the fields, you can often meet simultaneously wintering beetles and newly appeared. At this time, special protection of potatoes from the Colorado potato beetle is needed.
Hot weather depresses the beetles, and some of the overwintered beetles fall into the summer for up to 30 days or more, the rest period. Due to poor food or lack thereof, beetles may have a temporary suspension of active life for a longer period, and for this reason, they are sometimes in the soil at a dormant stage for up to 3 years. With an average abundance on the field (20–40 larvae and beetles per bush), the leaves are usually destroyed by half, the yield is reduced by 2–3 times, When the leaves are fully eaten, the yield is reduced by 10 times, and what remains will be substandard have poor quality and poor keeping quality.
Methods and Means of Combating the Colorado Potato Beetle
The fight with the Colorado potato beetle should be carried out annually and in a timely manner (regardless of the appearance of the pest and the mass development):
- planting varieties of later ripening – Sotka, Zarevo, Temp, and others, as well as varieties that form a powerful top – Adretta, Nikita, Shurminsky and others;
- planting in optimally early periods on well-filled soils so that the plant “has time to escape” from the still “sleeping” beetle;
- repeated sealing of emerged seedlings with 3-5 cm soil (the bug does not gnaw them in the soil);
- high hilling of bushes with backfilling of lower leaves on which eggs are laid;
- loosening row-spacing 2-3 days after the mass departure of larvae to pupate in the soil;
- removing leaves before harvesting worsens the conditions for preparation for wintering;
- late and deep plowing of fields (2-3 cm below the arable horizon) from under the potato turns the beetles to the surface, where they can then die from the onset of frost.
When larvae of 1-2 age appear, when their number is more than 20 per bush and their population is more than 20% of the bushes, it is recommended to carry out focal or continuous spraying with one of the chemical preparations, which include the following means of combating the Colorado potato beetle:
- arrivo (ambush, sherpa), 25% ke. 1.5 ml per 10 liters of water, with a flow rate of 1–2 hundred parts;
- Sumy alpha, 5% ke – 5 ml per 10 l of water;
- decis, 2.5% ke – 2 ml per 10 l of water;
- kinmix, 5.0% ke – 2.5 ml per 10 liters of water and other drugs approved for use in small farms and the private sector, but not more than two sprayings.
Biological preparations are affordable methods of combating the Colorado potato beetle, they act somewhat more slowly, but they are safer for humans and the environment: Bicol is a new form of bitoxibacillin, consumption is less than 20 g per 10 l of water (instead of 30-50 g of bitoxibacillin); fit over, 0.2% ke. – 4 ml per 10 liters of water. A mixture of fit over 0.2% 4 ml + Bicol 10 g per 10 l of water, not inferior to decis inefficiency.
The first treatment with biological products is carried out at the beginning of the mass hatching of larvae, again after 7-8 days with a population of more than 5 larvae per bush. It is noted that phytoverm also destroys beetles.